Iran Misc.

October 16, 2006 Tehran

-Almost half the nation's population lives below the poverty line.

-24,000 Iranians die in auto accidents each year. It's the single largest killer nationwide. There are no functioning rules of the road. Two lanes become four and traffic lights are routinely ignored. There is a seat belt law but it appears to have had little effect in slowing the carnage.

-The Coca-Cola Company has a bottling contract with the Khoshgovar Company in Mashad, Iran.

- All city and highway signs are required, by law, to be bilingual. Farsi and English are the national and international languages of choice.

-Iran has its own credit card system. Visa and Master Card are not accepted here, though some vendors maintain offshore accounts to process charges.

-There are seven television channels in Iran, including three dedicated to news, sports, and education. The remaining four, which are commercial, air a steady diet of serial romance and crime dramas.

-In the fashionable northern section of Tehran, there's a great pizza place where you can order an individual Chicago-style pie for less than $4.00. It is located in a neighborhood that is home to some of the city's wealthiest industrialists who are supported by a retail network of boutique stores from Versache to Swarovski.

-There are over 1,000 caves in Iran.

-Most Iranians consider themselves Persians, not Arabs. Arabian influences increased dramatically following the 1979 revolution. Some Iranians may even tell you privately they are living under occupation by foreign forces, namely clergy.

-The former U.S. Embassy in Tehran is now the headquarters of a special militia unit that is reportedly affiliated with the Iranian secret police.

Climbing Demavand

October 13, 2006 --Mt. Demavand, Iran

Mountains are great teachers. They teach us to listen and to step with care.

On the eve of our summit attempt in our shelter at 14,763 feet, I heard the wind. It was fierce, forbidding, and sustained. Winter had arrived with a vengeance on Mt. Demavand, which translated means "breathing mountain."

After four days of forging rivers and traversing smaller peaks in the Alborz Range, Salim, Mehran, and I started our final ascent at 6:30 a.m. on Thursday, October 12th. If we are to make the summit, we will have to climb the remaining 3,838 vertical feet and safely descend back to our shelter within a span of 10 hours.

Considering the conditions, it isn't much of a window. Trails of loose skree and rock visible the day before were now covered with snow, drifted and knee deep. Much of the climb will also involve navigating boulders and ledges on grades of 25 to 35 degrees.

Throughout the climb, I noticed that my breathing and movement were not synchronized. At significant altitude, oxygen is thin and climbers must consciously inhale/exhale in proportion to each step taken. The higher you go, the more breaths per step required. At around 17,000 feet, I was laboring. By 18,000 feet, I was leaning on both of my ski poles. And at just over 18,300 feet, everything changed.

The decisions we make prior to a journey carry consequences. For me, it would be crampons--12 point spike frames that fit on the outside of mountaineering boots offering greater stability and traction on snow and ice. Following a gear check with Salim a few days earlier, I left my crampons with other non- essential equipment back at base camp. As highly-experienced mountaineers and guides, both Salim and Mehran were climbing in insulated hiking boots. On this day, however, the snow, temperature, and wind made it an alpine-style climb.

While crossing an exposed field of ice-covered skree, I slipped descending 30 to 40 feet before coming to a complete stop. Wearing a Gore-Tex shell jacket, which acts as a lubricant on an ice surface, and without crampons, my situation was precarious. One miscalculated move would propel me further down the slope.

I called out to Mehran who carefully came over to my position. Interlocking his right forearm with my left, I was able to right myself and made my way to Salim.

American climbers are taught that summitting is optional, but coming home is mandatory. Had the climb ended at 18,300+ feet, I would not have been disappointed. Summitting at all costs can be a death wish. At this point, Salim had secured me with a rope and, employing a belay technique, was effectively pulling me the last 300 feet with words of encouragement, "Look, summit, summit!"

I am grateful for the strength and courage of these two men, heroes of Demavand, and recognize that I came here not to "bag a summit," but to build a bridge through mountaineering--to explore and to understand.

We returned to the safety of the shelter within the alloted time, more tired than hungry.
In the days following a climb, and the endless preparation and pain that inevitably goes with it, I often ponder "retirement." But I also know that on a clear day in early February, I'll look out my window at the blowing snow and wonder, where next?

Peace Summit at 18,601' on Mt. Demavand, Iran - The "Roof of theMiddle East"

October 12 --Mt. Demavand, Iran

At 12:57 p.m. Tehran time (5:27 a.m. New Haven) our team of three, which included one of the most experienced mountain guides in Iran, reached the summit of Mt. Demavand in an act of international cooperation and goodwill. Our ascent also represented a diversity of faith--Muslim, Jewish, and Christian. No flags were planted or plaques placed in the snow. There was just the jubilation of three men.

Shiraz, City of Poets / Isfahan, "Half the World"

October 8, 2006

Shiraz is located near the Zagros Mountains in central Iran. It was here that the Shiraz grape was first cultivated and pressed into wine allegedly inspiring the great 14th-century poet, Hafez, to write of love. He, along with other poets, are also credited with preserving the Farsi language and Persian culture. In the aftermath of the 1979 revolution, all wineries were closed as required by Islamic law, which prohibits the production and consumption of alcohol. The region's fertile terrain yields a wide selection of grains, fruits, and vegetables that helps feed Iran's 70 million inhabitants.

Northwest of Shiraz stands Isfahan--a city once described as possessing the beauty of "half the world." Isfahan is a spiritual center of Islam and architectural mecca of mosques, bridges, and artesian crafts. Even the Persian carpets found in bazaars and high-end retail stores seem to merit gallery space, not floor space. On Friday Sabbath, shops are closed until mid-afternoon and traffic is light as families begin finding their way to parks for picnics and play.

On my way back to Tehran, I was struck by the fact that love and beauty are probably not words that many in the West would use in reference to the land and people of Iran.

NEXT: Irregular dispatches from the climb of Mt. Demavand, October 8th - 13th

Tehran: The End of the Road

Tehran -- October 4, 2006

Tehran translated means "end of the road." This city faces tremendous environmental and social challenges that if not immediately addressed could result in disaster.

Pollution so severe that schools close, particularly during the winter months when the air is heavy and still with emissions generated by 3 million benzene burning passenger cars, many of them 40 years old.

The State University of Tehran with its 200,000 undergraduate and graduate/professional students whose current prospects for gainful employment following graduation do not look terribly promising.

Couples who may fall in love but do not marry because they cannot afford the monthly rent for a one-room starter flat.

A burdened system of medical care where hospitals assume the role of primary provider to the ever-expanding cadre of the unemployed and uninsured.

Financial institutions that limit mortgages to a maximum of $20,000 with rates starting at 16 percent, despite Islamic law's prohibition against interest charges on principal borrowed.

Though there is some progress on the environmental front, including a "green belt" banning building development beyond the city's borders and introduction of CNG as a natural gas fuel replacing the more toxic benzene, I wonder if it is simply too late in the game to change the outcome.

These challenges, which are also national in scope, do not include the political--closed newspapers, locked web sites, and confiscated satellite dishes that could carry the BBC and CNN into living rooms across the city.

They are only the politically "light" considerations.

Still, there is beauty in this land and grace in her people. And it is this I seek.

NEXT: Shiraz, City of Poets and Esfahan, "Half the World"

Photos from previous journeys... (part 2)

Mt. Rainier's halo as seen from base camp on Mt. Adams. (July 2004)

Nescott on summit of Mt. Adams 12, 276 feet. (July 2004)

View from Mt. Elbrus of central Caucasus. (August 2002)

Another view from Mt. Elbrus of central Caucasus. (August 2002)

Photos from previous journeys... (part 1)

Nescott sucking wind on summit of Mt. Rainier 14,410 feet -
second highest peak in the continental U.S. (September 2001)

Mt. Rainier reveals herself through the afternoon clouds. (September 2001)

Nescott on summit of Mt. Elbrus, Russia (Central Caucasus) -
the "Roof of Europe" 18, 481 feet (August 2002)

Nescott during acclimation training on Mt. Elbrus (August 2002)

Mt. Rainier, through the clouds (September 2001)

ARRIVAL: An American in Tehran

October 3, 2006
TEHRAN-- We emerge out of the darkness over the Alborz Mountains with Tehran in view. This city is a sprawling metropolis of 14 million people living in multi-story concrete housing covering approximately 20 square miles.

Having cleared customs control in less than an hour, I am met by Mehran Etemadi and his friend, Ali. Mehran will be one of my two guides for the upcoming expedition to Mt. Demavand. His uncle, Cyrus Etemadi, is managing director of Caravan Sahra, Co.--the company which is coordinating the expedition.

Within 45 minutes of our meeting and without any prodding from me, Mehran gave me a quick overview of his country from the backseat of Ali's 2000 Pride sedan.

A 2003 graduate of the University of Tehran with a degree in translation services, there is much he wants to say. These are difficult times in Iran and the future does not look particularly promising. With unemployment hovering at 22%, many of Iran's best and brightest are seeking opportunities outside of the country. High corporate taxes (currently at 19%) and a recent government policy requiring companies to disclose their sources of investment capital has prompted an exodus of both national and foreign (i.e. primarily European) companies from Iran to other neighbors in the region, including Dubai. The result, he says, is a "brain drain" among those of his generation. Years of sanctions and recent sabre rattling by the U.S. and their Western allies has acerbated the situation. Toward the end of our drive, Mehran makes special note of the fact that we're trav1eling down one of Tehran's main boulevards (formerly known as Eisenhower Aveue), but now named Azadi, which means freedom.

Tomorrow: More on Tehran ("End of the Road")

Yale analyst heads to Iran to climb volcano

Appeared in the New Haven Register on 10/04/2006

Yale analyst heads to Iran to climb volcano
Keri Lynn McHale, Special to the Register

-HAMDEN — In 2001, Lewis Nescott Jr. struggled through his first exposure to the sport of mountaineering — a one-day course on climbing.

Six years and several peaks later, the 52-year-old Hamden man is ready for his latest challenge.

This week he leaves for Iran, where he will attempt to reach the summit of the highest volcano in Asia.

Snow-covered Mount Damavand soars to 18,602 feet in the Alborz mountain range, which stretches from Armenia to the southern end of the Caspian Sea. Some scientists say the volcano is active, others say it’s dormant.

"My concern is always the cold. Once you get chilled to the bone it’s hard to reverse," said Nescott, a senior research analyst at Yale University’s Office of Development who periodically walks from his office in New Haven to his house in Hamden.

Nescott was not deterred by the United States government’s warnings to avoid travel to Iran. His mission is to show others that fears are not always waranted, he said.

"I climb not only for the summit but for the physical and cultural challenge," Nescott said. "Some of the most beautiful places tend to be in zones of conflict or political tension."

Nescott has been preparing for the trek for a year. The climb will take 12 to 14 hours. Nescott plans on scaling the south route of Mount Damavand. The climb is not technical, but he must be able to handle the high altitude.

He steadily set aside the money for the trip, $2,000. He’s packed food that will not freeze in bags that can be opened by bulky gloves. His 60-pound backpack is filled with six water bottles, food and "two pairs of everything in case one gets wet."

When he sleeps, he will tuck his socks under the bottom of pants to warm them using body heat.

"Climbing is the denial of pleasures for greater pleasure," he said. Nescott’s "glove system" begins with his thin blue liner gloves and branches out to pairs made of cotton, Scottish wool, and water-resistant fabric. Protection is important but dexterity is essential, he said.

He must have the ability to hold his lifeline, his steel ice ax.

"The balance is critical. ... The lowest level has loose scree and exposed rock, the middle level is mixed with ice and the highest level has both wind and ice," he said.

When the grades become too steep to safely climb, Nescott will harness himself to a fixed line and pull himself up. At higher elevations he must concentrate on every breath. The air is thin and he must "pressure breathe" to draw it into his lungs.

Nescott will be guided by an Iranian climber. Together they will make critical decisions that could save their lives. It is essential to read the weather, listen to the mountain and read the terrain, Nescott said.

"The summit can wait ... ignorance and unawareness are the gates to disaster," he said.

Nescott originally planned to leave in June, but was unable to get a visa.

After more than two months, Caravan Sahra Co., his sponsor in Iran, and Alpine Ascents International Inc., his U.S.-based tour company, worked together to secure a visa.

Nescott’s love of climbing started in 2001, when he decided to "go vertical."

Nescott mentally and physically trained for several months before his first expedition, Mount Rainier in Washington. He read books on mountaineering and focused on exercise.

Nescott’s first and only training took place in Mount Rainier National Park. Immediately after, he left on a two-day climb. He studied world-class guide David Hahn, who led the group of about 30 climbers up the mountain. Only half reached the summit of the 14,411-foot volcano, the second-highest peak in the continental United States, and Nescott was among them, he said.

He has since climbed Mount Elbrus in Russia, 18,481 feet, and Mount Adams in Washington, 12,276 feet.

He said he climbs to separate himself from the chaos below. Not to escape, but to find peace in nature and reaffirm his beliefs, he said.

"There’s just that moment. Really, there are no words for it. You can’t write about it or capture it. Just be present to it," he said.

Keri Lynn McHale is a Register intern.

©New Haven Register 2006